For decades, chemical hair relaxers have been a popular solution for those seeking to transform curly or textured hair into straight, manageable styles. However, behind the smooth results lies a troubling reality that dermatologists and researchers have been documenting with increasing concern.
Recent studies have linked these powerful chemical treatments to several serious health conditions, prompting medical professionals to raise alarms about their widespread use. Here’s what you need to know about the potential dangers associated with relaxing treatments.
The harsh chemistry behind hair relaxing
Chemical hair relaxers typically contain sodium hydroxide (lye) or calcium hydroxide (no-lye) formulations, both of which work by breaking down the protein bonds in hair. This process essentially restructures curly hair patterns into straight ones.
These chemicals have extremely high pH levels, typically between 10 and 14, making them highly alkaline and caustic. For comparison, a neutral pH is 7, while household bleach registers around 12.5.
These formulations are designed to penetrate the hair shaft and permanently alter its structure. Unfortunately, the same properties that make relaxers effective also make them potentially harmful to users’ health.
Scalp burns and irritation remain commonplace
Despite being marketed as safe when properly applied, chemical burns and irritation remain the most immediate and common risks associated with relaxers.
- Chemical burns occur when the powerful alkaline solution damages the skin tissue upon contact. Even with protective base creams applied to the scalp, many users report painful burning sensations during application. These burns can range from mild irritation to severe second-degree burns requiring medical attention.
Many users mistakenly believe the burning sensation is normal—some even call it “the tingle.” In reality, this discomfort signals actual chemical burns occurring on the scalp. Proper medical evaluation often reveals that recurring scalp issues stem directly from these chemical applications.
These burns can lead to scabbing, scarring, and altered pigmentation of the scalp. More concerning, repeated burns create pathways for chemicals to enter the bloodstream more easily during future applications.
Hair damage and breakage become inevitable
- The chemical restructuring process doesn’t just straighten hair—it fundamentally weakens it. The same bonds that give hair its strength and elasticity are irreversibly altered, leading to:
The damage manifests as increased porosity that makes hair unable to retain moisture. Users also experience reduced tensile strength, making strands more prone to breaking. Many notice progressive thinning over time as weakened hairs snap at the root.
Trichologists report that regular relaxer use typically results in a 35% reduction in hair strength, a figure that compounds with each reapplication. This damage often prompts users to apply relaxers more frequently to manage increasingly problematic hair, creating a destructive cycle.
Endocrine disruption raises serious concerns
- Perhaps most alarming are the emerging connections between hair relaxers and endocrine disruption. Many relaxer formulations contain phthalates, parabens, and other chemicals known to interfere with normal hormone function.
A landmark study published in the journal Environmental Research found that women who used chemical hair straighteners had higher concentrations of certain endocrine-disrupting chemicals in their blood compared to women who didn’t use these products.
These disruptions may contribute to reproductive issues, metabolic disorders, and certain hormone-sensitive cancers. The impact appears more significant with repeated exposure—precisely the pattern seen with regular relaxer maintenance.
Research links relaxers to reproductive health issues
- The connection between chemical hair straighteners and reproductive health has become increasingly clear in recent years. Multiple studies have found associations between regular relaxer use and earlier onset of menstruation in young girls. Researchers have documented higher rates of uterine fibroids among long-term users. The studies also report increased risk of endometriosis and potential fertility challenges in women who regularly apply these chemical treatments.
One study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology followed more than 23,000 women and found that frequent use of chemical hair straighteners was associated with a higher risk of uterine fibroids—noncancerous growths that can cause significant pain and heavy bleeding.
This connection appears particularly strong for women who began using relaxers at a young age and continued regular use throughout adulthood.
Cancer risk factors emerge in recent studies
- Perhaps most concerning is the emerging research linking chemical hair relaxers to elevated cancer risks. A 2022 study published in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute found that women who used chemical straighteners more than four times yearly had more than twice the risk of developing uterine cancer compared to non-users.
Additional research has identified potential links to breast cancer, especially among frequent, long-term users. While researchers continue to investigate the specific mechanisms, many believe the combination of endocrine disruption and direct absorption of carcinogenic compounds may play significant roles.
The risk appears particularly elevated for women who began using relaxers before age 18 and those who receive applications more frequently than recommended.
Respiratory problems affect stylists and clients alike
- The application process for chemical relaxers releases volatile compounds into the air, creating respiratory risks for both clients and stylists. Regular exposure to these fumes has been associated with increased asthma attacks in those with pre-existing conditions. Many individuals develop new respiratory sensitivities after repeated exposure. Studies document chronic irritation of the lungs and airways among both clients and stylists. Occupational asthma rates remain notably higher among salon professionals who regularly apply these chemical formulations.
A study in the Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine found that hairstylists who regularly applied chemical straighteners had significantly higher rates of respiratory symptoms compared to those who primarily performed other salon services.
Safer alternatives gaining popularity
As awareness of these risks grows, many women are seeking alternatives to chemical relaxers. Heat styling, keratin treatments (though these come with their own concerns), and protective styling offer temporary straightening options without the permanent chemical changes.
Most significantly, the natural hair movement has empowered many women to embrace their natural texture entirely, eliminating the need for chemical processing.
Hair professionals specializing in natural hair care report dramatic improvements in both hair and scalp health among clients who transition away from relaxers. Within months, many experience less breakage, improved growth, and resolution of scalp issues they’d been managing for years.
Making informed decisions about hair care
For those considering chemical relaxers, experts recommend several precautions. Always seek professional application rather than using at-home kits. Dermatologists advise extending the time between touch-ups to at least 8-12 weeks. Ensure the scalp is healthy and free of cuts or irritation before application. Consider alternatives that don’t permanently alter hair structure. Health advocates suggest discussing concerns with both stylists and healthcare providers before committing to these treatments.
Dermatologists acknowledge that the decision to use chemical hair relaxers is deeply personal and often complex. Cultural expectations, professional environments, and personal preferences all play roles. Medical professionals aim not to shame anyone’s choices but to ensure those choices are fully informed by the latest research.
As research continues to evolve, many advocates hope for stronger regulations and more transparent labeling of these products. Until then, awareness remains the most powerful tool for those navigating the complex intersection of hair care and health.
