In the vibrant world of fashion, few names resonate as powerfully as Mowalola Ogunlesi. The British-Nigerian designer has made waves since launching her eponymous brand in 2017, establishing herself as a trailblazer who is unafraid to challenge norms and redefine narratives. Her partnership with SSENSE and ESSENCE highlights her influence and the cultural shift she embodies.
A unique approach to fashion
Mowalola’s designs are not just clothing; they are statements. With a fearless use of materials like PVC and leather, her collections feature bold cutouts and gender-bending elements that have captured the attention of celebrities such as Rihanna, Kelela, Naomi Campbell, and Solange Knowles. Each piece is crafted to provoke thought and conversation, making her a standout in the industry.
Breaking boundaries
Her debut show was a powerful commentary on the colonial view of Black masculinity, presenting a sensual and nonbinary approach to fashion. This innovative perspective quickly garnered the attention of industry leaders, including Lulu Kennedy from the U.K. talent incubator Fashion East. Ogunlesi’s background as a graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins art school laid the foundation for her rapid ascent in high fashion.
Inspiration and influence
Ogunlesi draws inspiration from her Nigerian roots and a myriad of subjects, including race, gender, and sexuality. Her seasonal runway shows often reflect Y2K aesthetics, showcasing her ability to blend cultural references with contemporary fashion. The designer’s creative process is deeply influenced by her upbringing; both of her parents are designers who run successful businesses in Nigeria, instilling in her a fearless approach to creation.
Artistry in motion
In her East London studio, Ogunlesi embodies her mantra: “Do what you want to do.” She embraces spontaneity in her designs, often stating that she is ready to pivot in a new direction at any moment. Her Spring/Summer 2024 runway show, inspired by David Cronenberg’s film Crash, showcased models styled as if they had just survived a violent encounter, pushing the boundaries of fashion storytelling.
Innovative business model
Ogunlesi’s approach to her brand is as innovative as her designs. She operates outside the traditional fashion calendar, allowing her creativity to flourish without constraints. Influenced by industry pioneers like Telfar Clemens, she has adopted a direct-to-consumer model that resonates with her growing cult following. Her popular items, including snapback trucker hats, graphic-print baby tees, and leather extra-mini skirts, reflect her unique aesthetic and commitment to inclusivity.
The future of Mowalola Ogunlesi
As Mowalola Ogunlesi continues to push boundaries and explore new creative avenues, the fashion world eagerly anticipates her next move. With each collection, she builds a universe that captivates and inspires, ensuring her place as a leading voice in contemporary fashion.
Interviewer: Lynette Nylander
Photography: Richard Dowker
This article originally appeared in the September/October 2024 issue of ESSENCE magazine, available on newsstands August 26.
