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Trailblazing Black women transform New York Fashion Week

Together, these women are reshaping the narrative of what fashion can be
fashion week
(Photo credit: Shutterstock.com / Andrii Kobryn)
New York Fashion Week, or NYFW, has not only showcased fashion’s brightest stars but has also served as a critical stage for the fight for representation and inclusivity. Over the years, Black women have played a pivotal role in reshaping the industry, breaking barriers and redefining standards in beauty, fashion, and hairstyling. From trailblazers like Bethann Hardison and Pat McGrath to emerging talents like hairstylist Aminata Kamara, these pioneers have left an indelible mark on the event and continue to drive change in the fashion world.

Bethann Hardison: The trailblazing model and advocate

Bethann Hardison, a pioneering model and modeling agent, emerged as a key figure in the fight for diversity in fashion. In the 1970s, she was one of the few Black models to break into the industry, but her impact went far beyond the runway. Hardison became an advocate for racial equality in fashion, famously challenging designers, editors and casting directors to include more Black models in their shows. Her work laid the foundation for future generations of models and set a precedent for inclusivity at events like NYFW.


Pat McGrath: Redefining beauty standards

Dame Pat McGrath, often hailed as one of the most influential makeup artists in the world, revolutionized — and still revolutionizes — the beauty industry with her visionary approach. Throughout her career, she has pushed the boundaries of makeup artistry, creating iconic looks that have graced the runways of NYFW and beyond. McGrath’s work has not only redefined beauty standards but has also made space for diverse representation in an industry that often overlooked Black women. Her success paved the way for others to follow, proving that talent and creativity know no boundaries.


Aminata Kamara: The next generation of pioneers

Building on the legacies of Hardison and McGrath, hairstylist Aminata Kamara is making her mark at NYFW by championing the needs of Black models. Known for her expertise in textured hair, Kamara addresses a persistent issue in the fashion industry: the lack of hairstylists trained to work with Black hair. Many Black models have shared stories of frustration and damage caused by stylists who are unprepared to handle textured hair, highlighting the ongoing challenges of representation and inclusion.

Kamara’s journey into hairstyling began as a personal passion, one that eventually led her to the backstage of major fashion shows. Her work on the cornrow hairstyles for the Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2024 Show —which went viral on social media — showcases her talent and attention to detail. Kamara’s dedication to creating a safe and supportive environment for Black models continues the work started by pioneers like Hardison, ensuring that future generations of Black women in fashion feel valued and respected.


Empowering Black models and changing the industry

Each of these women has played a crucial role in transforming NYFW and the fashion industry as a whole. Hardison’s advocacy for diversity, McGrath’s groundbreaking makeup artistry and Kamara’s commitment to textured hair have all contributed to a more inclusive and representative fashion world. Their legacies are not just about personal success but about opening doors for others and challenging an industry that has often resisted change.

As Kamara continues to rise in the fashion world, she represents the latest chapter in this history of Black female pioneers. Her work — like that of Hardison and McGrath before her — is paving the way for a new generation of Black hairstylists, makeup artists and models to thrive at NYFW and beyond. Together, these women are reshaping the narrative of what fashion can be, ensuring that it reflects the beauty and diversity of the world we live in.

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