On this Thanksgiving Day, many of us reflect on the traditions and dishes that make this holiday special. While the mainstream narrative often highlights the whitewashed version of the Pilgrims and their meal with the Wampanoag tribe, the history of Thanksgiving is multifaceted, especially within the African American community. This article delves into the Black origins of some beloved Thanksgiving dishes, revealing a rich tapestry of culture and resilience.
The historical context of Thanksgiving
Thanksgiving is not just a celebration of harvest; it also carries historical significance, particularly for Black Americans. After the pivotal victory at Saratoga during the Revolutionary War, the Continental Congress encouraged the colonies to give thanks, and enslaved Black individuals were included in these celebrations. However, the essence of Thanksgiving for the Black community has deep roots in church-based gatherings, where sermons often reflected on struggles, hopes and the quest for freedom.
According to the African American Registry, Thanksgiving expressions began as church celebrations, where Black pastors delivered powerful sermons addressing the plight of enslaved individuals and the hope for a future free from bondage. This historical context adds depth to the modern-day Thanksgiving celebrations, particularly in Black culture.
Thanksgiving: A culinary celebration
Today, Thanksgiving has evolved into a significant culinary event, often referred to as the ultimate “Black folks’ cookout.” The food served during this holiday is deeply intertwined with Black history, particularly soul food, which has its roots in the struggles and resilience of African Americans. Adrian Miller, author of Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time, emphasizes that holiday food is inextricable from soul food, highlighting its importance in the cultural identity of Black Americans.
Key Thanksgiving dishes and their origins
As we prepare for Thanksgiving, let’s explore the origins of some staple dishes that grace the tables of many Black families:
1. Mac and cheese
Mac and cheese, a beloved comfort food, has its roots in the 18th century. James Hemings — who was enslaved by Thomas Jefferson — is credited with introducing this dish to America. Initially known as macaroni pie, it was made by layering sharp American cheese with macaroni and baking it in a Dutch oven. This dish has since become a staple at Thanksgiving tables across the nation.
2. Collard greens
Collard greens hold a special place in Black culinary tradition. According to the LATIBAH Collard Green Museum, these greens were among the few vegetables that African Americans were allowed to cultivate during slavery. The love for collard greens has persisted through generations, with families passing down recipes that celebrate this nutritious and flavorful dish.
3. Sweet potato pie
Sweet potato pie is a dessert with roots tracing back to carrot pie from Great Britain. Enslaved Africans adapted this dish, initially consuming sweet potatoes in various forms, including roasted and in puddings. Today, sweet potato pie is a cherished dessert that symbolizes the creativity and resourcefulness of Black cooks.
4. Cornbread
Cornbread has a significant historical context, as it was a staple for enslaved individuals who relied on cornmeal for sustenance. Dr. Frederick Douglass Opie notes that cornbread and other corn-based dishes were survival foods, showcasing the ingenuity of enslaved people in making the most of limited resources.
5. Dressing
The debate over whether to call it dressing or stuffing is ongoing (It’s dressing. -Ed.), but its origins are rooted in the survival of enslaved individuals. Known as “kush” in the past, this dish was made from basic ingredients provided by slaveholders. It evolved into a beloved Thanksgiving staple, reflecting the resourcefulness and culinary skills of Black cooks.
As we gather around the table this Thanksgiving, it’s essential to acknowledge and celebrate the rich history behind the dishes we enjoy. The Black origins of Thanksgiving foods are a testament to resilience, creativity, and cultural heritage. By understanding these connections, we can honor the past while creating new memories with family and friends.
Thanksgiving is more than just a holiday; it is a celebration of history, culture and community. Let us embrace the stories behind our favorite dishes and continue to pass down these traditions for generations to come.
