Who better than Black fashion designers to make an impact on the world? Rolling out takes a look at five who have broken barriers and made an impact that will be recognized and felt for a long time.
5. Willi Smith, fashion barrier breaker
Willi Smith’s fashion label, WilliWear Ltd., launched in 1976 and quickly became one of the most popular brands of the late ‘70s and ‘80s, generating millions in annual sales. A true innovator, Smith coined the term “Street Couture” in 1983, pioneering a revolutionary approach that fused high fashion with casual, everyday wear. His visionary designs extended beyond clothing, as seen in his work for Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s 1985 art installation The Pont Neuf Wrapped, where he created uniforms that seamlessly blended fashion and conceptual art.
Smith’s cultural influence also reached the big screen when he designed the costumes for Spike Lee’s 1988 film School Daze, further solidifying his impact on pop culture and Black creativity. His groundbreaking work earned him the 1983 Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award, one of the most prestigious honors in the industry.
4. Patrick Kelly, bold and unconventional
Patrick Kelly’s bold and unconventional approach to fashion made him one of the most influential Black designers of the 1980s. Originally from Mississippi, he moved to Paris, where his vibrant, playful designs quickly gained international recognition. In 1985, he became the first American designer to be admitted into the prestigious Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter, solidifying his place in the world of high fashion. Kelly was known for his use of bright colors, oversized buttons, and heart motifs, often incorporating elements of Black Southern culture and satire to challenge stereotypes in the industry.
His collections were a mix of whimsy and social commentary, drawing inspiration from everything from Josephine Baker to vintage Black memorabilia. Celebrities like Grace Jones and Naomi Campbell wore his designs, further amplifying his influence. Though his life was cut short in 1990, his groundbreaking work paved the way for future generations of Black designers, leaving behind a legacy of creativity, cultural pride, and fearless self-expression.
3. House of Aama, inspired by Southern roots
House of Aama is a fashion brand rooted in heritage, storytelling, and the celebration of Black culture. Founded by mother-daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka, the brand blends historical references with contemporary design, creating pieces that explore the African American experience through fashion. Their collections often draw inspiration from folklore, spirituality, and the Southern roots of Black identity, incorporating elements like lace, vintage silhouettes, and rich textures to evoke nostalgia and ancestral connection.
House of Aama gained widespread attention for its 2017 collection, Bloodroot, which reflected on the resilience and traditions of the Black South. Their work has been featured in major publications like Vogue and worn by artists such as Beyoncé, further solidifying their influence in modern fashion. By weaving history into their designs, House of Aama continues to push the boundaries of storytelling in fashion, offering pieces that are not just garments but reflections of cultural memory and Black excellence.
2. Dapper Dan, on the high-end side
Dapper Dan revolutionized fashion by bringing high-end luxury to the streets, blending Harlem’s bold style with the prestige of designer logos. In the 1980s, his boutique on 125th Street became a hub for custom-made pieces that reimagined European fashion houses like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Fendi with a street-savvy edge. His signature designs, featuring oversized monograms, fur-lined jackets, and leather ensembles, became a status symbol in hip-hop culture, worn by legends like LL Cool J, Eric B. & Rakim, Salt-N-Pepa, and Mike Tyson.
Despite his facing legal battles with major fashion houses that led to his boutique’s closure in 1992, his influence never faded. Decades later, luxury brands recognized his impact, leading to an official collaboration with Gucci in 2017 and the opening of a Dapper Dan atelier in Harlem. His ability to merge high fashion with urban culture redefined luxury and cemented his legacy as a pioneer of streetwear and a true visionary in fashion.
1. Virgil Abloh, fresh and inclusive
Virgil was a visionary designer who redefined the intersection of streetwear, luxury, and contemporary culture. Originally trained as an architect, he transitioned into fashion and quickly gained recognition for his innovative approach, blending high fashion with everyday street style. In 2012, he founded Off-White, a brand known for its signature quotation marks, industrial belts, and deconstructed aesthetics, which became a global phenomenon.
His influence expanded further in 2018 when he made history as the first Black artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear, bringing a fresh, inclusive perspective to one of the most prestigious luxury fashion houses. Abloh’s designs often drew inspiration from hip-hop, skate culture, and modern art, seamlessly merging different creative worlds. His collaborations with brands like Nike, IKEA, and even Evian pushed the boundaries of fashion and design, making luxury more accessible to a new generation.
Though his life was cut short in 2021, Abloh’s legacy as a trailblazer continues to shape fashion, inspiring creatives across multiple industries with his belief that “everything you do in life is design.”
